Fibres-collectives-Top-10-livres-de-mode-de-2015

Top 10 livres de mode de 2015

Après la musique, le cinéma et les paillets , c’est le tour des livres. Voici le Top 10 des livres de mode qui sont publiés en 2015.

Tout comme le #NoelLocal, pour encourager l’économie local, on vous suggère de faire la commande de ces livres dans une librairie indy près de chez vous. Autrement, ces livres sont aussi disponibles gratuitement à la Bibliothèque et Archives nationales du Québec (BAnQ).

Alexander McQueen - edited by Claire Wilcox

Alexander McQueen / edited by Claire Wilcox

  • Auteur : McQueen, Alexander, 1969-2010 artiste.
  • Éditeur Publication : New York : Abrams, 2015.
  • Description : 347 pages : illustrations (principalement en couleur), portraits ; 32 cm
  • This definitive publication on Alexander McQueen (1969–2010) invites you into the creative mind and world of one of Britain’s most brilliant, daring, and provocative designers, and the many themes and references that shaped his visionary fashion collections.
    A true comprehensive study, this catalog is the first in-depth look at McQueen and explores key themes of the exhibition—tailoring, gothic, primitivism, naturalism, and futurism. The book also features previously unseen material as well as groundbreaking essays and feature spreads by multiple authors and leading fashion commentators. This kaleidoscopic approach explores themes central to the designer’s work and his collections, such as the psychology of fashion, natural history, the theatre and spectacle of his shows, and the key creative collaborators during McQueen’s lifetime.
    Alexander McQueen also offers an encyclopedic survey of McQueen’s catwalk collections, illustrated with striking images by leading fashion photographers, and specially commissioned photographs that capture the breathtaking skill of his designs and awesome theatricality of his shows.

 

China - through the looking glass - Andrew Bolton with John Galliano -and six others- photography by Platon

China : through the looking glass / Andrew Bolton with John Galliano [and six others] ; photography by Platon.

  • Éditeur Publication : New York : The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2015
  • Description 255 pages : illustrations en couleur ; 28 cm
  • For centuries, China’s export arts – jade, silks, porcelains and, more recently, cinema – have fuelled Western fantasies of an exotic East and served as enduring sources of inspiration for fashion. This stunning publication explores the influence of Chinese aesthetics on designers including Giorgio Armani, Christian Dior, Jean Paul Gaultier, Karl Lagerfeld, Ralph Lauren, Alexander McQueen and Yves Saint Laurent. Drawing upon Chinese decorative arts, cinema and costume, notably imperial court robes, the close fitting cheongsam, and the unisex Mao suit, their designs are fantastical pastiches of anachronistic motifs. As in the game of ‘Chinese whispers’, the process of cultural translation transforms the source material into ingeniously original fashions that are products solely of the designers imaginations. In a similar way, contemporary Chinese film directors render fanciful, highly stylized evocations of various epochs in China’s history demonstrating that China’s imagery is equally seductive to artists in the East and further inspiring today s designers. Juxtaposing modern fashions and film stills with their forebears in fine and decorative arts and historical dress, China: Through the Looking Glass reveals the rich and ongoing creative dialogue between East and West, past and present.

 

En mode sport -exposition, Nice, Musée national du sport, 12 juin-20 septembre 2015

En mode sport : [exposition, Nice, Musée national du sport, 12 juin-20 septembre 2015]

  • Éditeur Nice : Musée national du sport ; Paris : Somogy éditions d’art, 2015
  • Description 111 p. : ill. en coul. ; 30 cm
  • La rencontre entre le sport et la mode va de soi. Elle est fortement liée à l’invention du sport moderne initié par les Britanniques. Dès le milieu du XIXe siècle, les catégories aisées trouvent dans les pratiques un espace de distinction sociale. Le choix de la discipline (tennis, équitation, golf) et le raffinement des tenues vestimentaires deviennent les signes d’une affirmation de classe. Dans les années 1920-1930, les stations hivernales et balnéaires se transforment en véritables lieux d’apparat du chic absolu. L’engouement et l’essor des compétitions obligent à une spécificité du vêtement sportif. Face à cette singularité, des personnalités de la mode et des célébrités sportives développent matières, lignes et collections de sport. Progressivement, « le style sport » sort de ce vestiaire spécifique pour pénétrer dans la garde-robe de l’élégance masculine et féminine. The connection between sport and fashion is quite natural and is closely linked to the invention of modern sport that was initiated by the British. In the mid nineteenth century, the upper classes saw these activities as a way of highlighting social differences. The choice of discipline (tennis, horse riding, or golf) and the refinement of the attire became indispensable signs that affirmed the social class of the wearer. In the 1920s and ’30s, the winter and sea resorts were transformed into veritable centres for high fashion. The enthusiasm for and emergence of competitive sports encouraged the development of highly specific forms of clothing. This singularity led to the development of materials, clothing lines, and sports collections by fashion and sports celebrities. The ‘sports style’ gradually emerged from this specific wardrobe and became a regular feature of masculine and feminine elegance.

 

Haute couture - histoire de l'industrie de la création des précurseurs à nos jours - Guénolée Milleret -préface, Alexis Mabille

Haute couture : histoire de l’industrie de la création des précurseurs à nos jours / Guénolée Milleret ; [préface, Alexis Mabille].

  • Auteur : Milleret, Guénolée, 1970-
  • Éditeur Paris : Eyrolles, 2015
  • Description 189, [3] p. : ill. (principalement en coul.) ; 22 cm
  • Ce livre retrace le développement socio-économique et culturel de l’activité de haute couture à travers l’histoire, depuis les précurseurs, les célèbres «marchands de modes» de l’Ancien Régime, puis le premier couturier au sens moderne du terme, Charles F. Worth. Remarquablement documenté, il s’intéresse à tous les acteurs de l’industrie de la création, à ses métiers, à ses instances représentatives, qui ont façonné une véritable exception française. Il est l’occasion, tout en évoquant l’histoire stylistique de la mode, de constater l’impact des «artisans du Beau» sur la société tout entière ; et de montrer comment la haute couture actuelle, entre tradition et innovation, demeure un enjeu économique majeur par son image d’excellence à l’international.

 

Les fondamentaux du design de mode - les 26 concepts clés du stylisme - Laura Volpintesta - traduit de l'anglais par Véronique Valentin

Les fondamentaux du design de mode : les 26 concepts clés du stylisme / Laura Volpintesta ; traduit de l’anglais par Véronique Valentin.

  • Auteur : Volpintesta, Laura
  • Éditeur Paris : Dunod, ©2015
  • Description 223 p. : ill. en coul. ; 26 cm
  • À la fois recueil d’idées et livre didactique, cet ouvrage s’adresse à tous les stylistes, professionnels ou étudiants, et plus largement à tous les passionnés de mode. Il présente les 26 concepts clés du design de mode : leur nature, leur importance et leur place dans tout processus de conception.
    Analysés et commentés, près de 500 photographies, croquis et dessins de créations remarquables illustrent ces principes fondamentaux, tandis que sont dressés lesportraits de 26 grands couturiers (de Sonia Rykiel à Issey Miyake, en passant par Alix Grès, Agatha Ruiz de la Prada, ou encore Manish Arora) qui font ou ont marqué l’histoire du stylisme.

 

Mécanique des dessous. Anglais. Fashioning the body - an intimate history of the silhouette - edited by Denis Bruna

Mécanique des dessous. Anglais. Fashioning the body : an intimate history of the silhouette / edited by Denis Bruna.

  • Éditeur Publication : New Haven : Published for Bard Graduate Center, Decorative Arts, Design History,
  • Material Culture. New York by Yale University Press, 2015
  • Description 271 pages ; chiefly illustrations : 28 cm
  • This unique survey offers fascinating insights into the convoluted transformations employed by both men and women to accommodate the fickle dictates of fashion. With high design, wit, and style, Fashioning the Body tracks the evolution of these sartorial devices-from panniers, crinolines, and push-up bras to chains, zippers, and clasps-concealed beneath outer layers in order to project idealized figures. Women’s corsets constricted waists; exaggerated buttocks and hips counterbalanced jutting bust lines; and chic, aerodynamic silhouettes compressed breasts and flattened bellies. Yet masculine fashion has been no stranger to these tortuous practices. Men flaunted their virility by artificially broadening their shoulders, applying padding to their chests, and slipping codpieces over their groins. With more than 200 beautiful illustrations-including reproductions of superb historic advertisements-Denis Bruna reveals the industry and art of these contrivances meant to entice and beguile as well as assert status and power. Contemporary haute-couture designers Thierry Mugler, Jean Paul Gaultier, Rei Kawakubo for Comme des Garcons, Christian Lacroix, and Vivienne Westwood are featured in this indiscreet tour of intimate fashion history.

 

Models of influence - 50 women who reset the course of fashion - Nigel Barker

Models of influence : 50 women who reset the course of fashion / Nigel Barker.

  • Auteur : Barker, Nigel, 1972-
  • Éditeur Publication : New York, NY : Harper Design, an imprint of HarperCollins Publishers, 2015
  • Description 255 pages : illustrations (certaines en couleur) ; 30 cm
  • A Collectible Anthology of the 50 Most Inf luential Models in Fashion History
    In Models of Influence, photographer, television host, and fashion authority Nigel Barker profiles fifty of the most noteworthy models from the 1940s to the present, revealing how their look or way of modeling not only made an indelible stamp on the industry but also influenced fashion design, the popular way of dress, and notions of female beauty worldwide.
    Each of the book’s eight chapters focuses on a distinct period, from the postwar modeling boom, which ushered in an era of models who communicated a return to glamour, to the present day, with the emergence of media-savvy models who understand the power of branding themselves to the world at large. Each entry highlights the model’s background and career, exploring her unique qualities and the secret to her staying power, whether it’s her physical characteristics, daring approach to image making, transformative abilities, or a particular energy that captured or even redefined the zeitgeist of fashion and culture of the time.
    To complement the text, Barker has personally selected more than one hundred full-color and black-and-white photographs from the archives of the world’s top fashion photographers—Richard Avedon, Irving Penn, David Bailey, Francesco Scavullo, Herb Ritts, and Mario Testino among them—to assemble a collectible anthology of many of the finest fashion images from the last seventy years.
    With an engaging, informative text and a vivid collection of seminal photographs, Models of Influence is the definitive word on the subject.
    With 110 full-color and black-and-white photographs

 

The Battle of Versailles - the night American fashion stumbled into the spotlight and made history - Robin Givhan

The Battle of Versailles : the night American fashion stumbled into the spotlight and made history / Robin Givhan.

  • Auteur Givhan, Robin
  • Éditeur Publication : New York : Flatiron Books, 2015
  • Description 310 pages, 16 pages non numérotées de planches : illustrations (certaines en couleur) ; 25 cm
  • On November 28, 1973, the world’s social elite gathered at the Palace of Versailles for an international fashion show. By the time the curtain came down on the evening’s spectacle, history had been made and the industry had been forever transformed. This is that story.
    Conceived as a fund-raiser for the restoration of King Louis XIV’s palace, in the late fall of 1973, five top American designers faced off against five top French designers in an over-the-top runway extravaganza. An audience filled with celebrities and international jet-setters, including Princess Grace of Monaco, the Duchess of Windsor, Paloma Picasso, and Andy Warhol, were treated to an opulent performance featuring Liza Minnelli, Josephine Baker, and Rudolph Nureyev. What they saw would forever alter the history of fashion.
    The Americans at the Battle of Versailles- Oscar de la Renta, Bill Blass, Anne Klein, Halston, and Stephen Burrows – showed their work against the five French designers considered the best in the world – Yves Saint Laurent, Hubert de Givenchy, Pierre Cardin, Emanuel Ungaro, and Marc Bohan of Christian Dior. Plagued by in-fighting, outsized egos, shoestring budgets, and innumerable technical difficulties, the American contingent had little chance of meeting the European’s exquisite and refined standards. But against all odds, the American energy and the domination by the fearless models (ten of whom, in a groundbreaking move, were African American) sent the audience reeling. By the end of the evening, the Americans had officially taken their place on the world’s stage, prompting a major shift in the way race, gender, sexuality, and economics would be treated in fashion for decades to come. As the curtain came down on The Battle of Versailles, American fashion was born; no longer would the world look to Europe to determine the stylistic trends of the day, from here forward, American sensibility and taste would command the world’s attention.
    Pulitzer-Prize winning fashion journalist Robin Givhan offers a lively and meticulously well-researched account of this unique event. The Battle of Versailles is a sharp, engaging cultural history; this intimate examination of a single moment shows us how the world of fashion as we know it came to be.

 

Traditional couture - folkloric heritage costumes - photographed by Gregor Hohenberg

Traditional couture : folkloric heritage costumes / photographed by Gregor Hohenberg

  • Auteur Hohenberg, Gregor
  • Éditeur Berlin : Gestalten, 2015.
  • Description 319 p. : ill. en coul., cartes ; 34 cm
  • Traditional clothing represents the regions where it is produced along with their cultures and handcraft. Its creativity and longevity is inspiring high fashion designers of today and tomorrow. Traditional clothing is essentially haute couture. Made with high quality fabrics and elaborate workmanship, it embodies cultural heritage and style. Encompassing a surprising variety of garments, it represents premioum handcraft, an awareness of tradition, a sense of belonging, and an affinity to one’s homeland. At the same time, folkloric clothing is inspriing some of today and tomorrow’s most ambitious and radical fashion designers. In Traditional Couture, photographer Gregor Hohenberg succeeds in building a visual bridge between the outmoded and the avant-garde in German folkloric fashion. He portrays the individuals, young and old alike, who wear traditional attire in all the regions of his homeland, as well as their surroundings. Furthermore, he depicts the distinctive garments in all their glorious detail: pearls, seams, embroidery, and colors–all of which are completely unaffected by the seasonal influences of the fashion industry. This book is a dazzling journey in pictures featuring an almost overwhelming abundance of visual symbols and stylistic inspiration. At the same time, Traditional Couture captures the grace and dignity with which clothing is worn. The book eschews kitschy German folklore to show how donning traditional dress can change one’s composure, lend charisma, and make statement while providing a relaxed sense of self-confidence and feeding passion for special attire at special occassions. There is simply no other clothing that represents the wearer’s biography and region in quite the same way. Traditional German outfits are made to last a lifetime and handed down to future generations. Some of their details are so elaborately made that hardly anyone has the time or skill to create them today. Tailors that still master this art are in high demand far beyond regional borders. Consequently, traditional clothing is a handcraft that connects people. The distinctive quality, identity, and intensity of the attire featured in Traditional Couture is inspiring fashion designers to rethink their collections in new directions. While giant fashion brands are surrendering to global, fast-lived trends, more and more small manufacturers are creating enduring garments: heirlooms instead of throw-away t-shirts.

 

Yves Saint Laurent 1971 - la collection du scandale -commissaire d'exposition, Olivier Saillard assisté d'Alexandre Samson

Yves Saint Laurent 1971 : la collection du scandale / [commissaire d’exposition, Olivier Saillard assisté d’Alexandre Samson].

  • Éditeur Paris : Flammarion : Fondation Pierre Bergé-Yves Saint-Laurent, 2015
  • Description 169 p. : ill. (certaines en coul.) ; 28 cm
  • Le 29 janvier 1971, Yves Saint Laurent présente sa collection haute couture printemps-été : épaules carrées, robes- chemisiers imprimées, fourrures et semelles compensées défilent dans les salons du 30 bis, rue Spontini. Les réactions du public et de la presse ne sont qu’aversion et consternation pour ces lignes clairement inspirées des années de guerre et d’Occupation. La collection jugée « la plus laide de Paris » est pourtant immédiatement adoptée par la rue. En inventant le style « rétro », Yves Saint Laurent fait entrer avec fracas la mode dans la modernité. La Fondation Pierre Bergé – Yves Saint Laurent conserve précieusement les archives de la maison de haute couture : modèles, croquis originaux, fiches d’ateliers, échantillons de tissus et photographies de défilé. Conçu à partir de tous ces documents, témoins des différentes étapes de la création, ce livre permet de reconstituer les quatre-vingt-quatre passages de cette « collection du scandale » qui marqua définitivement l’histoire de la mode.

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